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Candle Wax and Fragrance
Wax Needed
The Numbers
Wax Needed
The Numbers
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Good to Know
Wax density and fragrance load vary somewhat by supplier, blend, and dye/additives -- always test your specific wax and fragrance combination in your specific container before a full production batch.
How Wax Weight and Fragrance Oil Amounts Are Calculated
Wax fill weight is calculated from a container’s volume using the wax’s own density, and fragrance oil is dosed as a percentage of that wax weight. Enter your container’s volume, pick a wax type, and set your fragrance load to see how much of each you need.
236.6 mL×0.90 g/mL=212.9 g wax,212.9×8%=17.0 g fragrance oil
Always test your specific wax and fragrance combination in your specific container before pouring a full batch — density and fragrance-load tolerance vary a little by supplier and blend.
Key Factors to Consider
Wick sizing depends on container diameter and wax type, not on fragrance load. A wick that’s
too small won’t create a full melt pool (leaving wax stuck to the container walls), while a wick
that’s too large burns too hot — always test your specific wick against your specific wax and
container combination, separate from getting the fragrance percentage right.
A candle needs to cure before its scent throw is representative. Freshly poured candles
typically need to sit for 1-2 weeks (curing time varies by wax type) before the fragrance fully
binds with the wax — testing a candle’s scent immediately after pouring can be misleading.
Melting temperature and pour temperature both affect the final result, not just the fragrance
amount. Adding fragrance oil at the wrong wax temperature (too hot or too cool) can affect how
well it binds, how the candle looks once cured, and even fragrance retention — follow your
specific wax’s recommended melt and pour temperatures.
Overfilling fragrance load risks more than just wasted oil. Exceeding a wax’s recommended
maximum fragrance load can cause the fragrance to “sweat” out of the cured candle, create an
uneven or oily surface, and in some cases affect how safely the candle burns — staying within
the supplier’s recommended range matters for more than just scent strength.
Useful to Know
Once a candle is cured and ready to burn, trim the wick to about 1/4 inch (6 mm) before every
use. According to the National Candle Association, an untrimmed wick can burn with too high a
flame, producing soot and an uneven, tunneling melt pool — a wick-trimming habit matters just as
much as getting the fragrance load right in the first place. Burn candles in a well-ventilated
room away from drafts, keep them away from anything flammable, and stop burning once about half an
inch of wax remains at the bottom of the container.
Cómo Se Calcula el Peso de la Cera y la Cantidad de Fragancia
El peso de llenado de la cera se calcula a partir del volumen de un recipiente usando la densidad propia de la cera, y el aceite de fragancia se dosifica como un porcentaje de ese peso de cera. Ingresa el volumen de tu recipiente, elige un tipo de cera y ajusta tu carga de fragancia para ver cuánto necesitas de cada uno.
La Fórmula
Peso de la Cera=Volumen del Recipiente×Densidad de la CeraPeso de la Fragancia=Peso de la Cera×Carga de Fragancia
Ejemplo Resuelto
236,6 mL×0,90 g/mL=212,9 g de cera,212,9×8%=17,0 g de aceite de fragancia
Siempre prueba tu combinación específica de cera y fragancia en tu recipiente específico antes de verter un lote completo — la densidad y la tolerancia de carga de fragancia varían un poco según el proveedor y la mezcla.
Factores Clave a Considerar
El tamaño de la mecha depende del diámetro del recipiente y del tipo de cera, no de la carga
de fragancia. Una mecha demasiado pequeña no creará una piscina de fusión completa (dejando
cera pegada a las paredes del recipiente), mientras que una mecha demasiado grande quema
demasiado caliente — siempre prueba tu mecha específica con tu combinación específica de cera y
recipiente, por separado de ajustar correctamente el porcentaje de fragancia.
Una vela necesita curarse antes de que su difusión de aroma sea representativa. Las velas
recién vertidas normalmente necesitan reposar de 1 a 2 semanas (el tiempo de curado varía según
el tipo de cera) antes de que la fragancia se una completamente con la cera — probar el aroma de
una vela inmediatamente después de verterla puede ser engañoso.
La temperatura de fusión y la temperatura de vertido afectan el resultado final, no solo la
cantidad de fragancia. Añadir aceite de fragancia a la temperatura incorrecta de la cera
(demasiado caliente o demasiado fría) puede afectar qué tan bien se une, cómo se ve la vela una
vez curada, e incluso la retención de la fragancia — sigue las temperaturas recomendadas de
fusión y vertido de tu cera específica.
Excederse en la carga de fragancia arriesga más que solo desperdiciar aceite. Superar la
carga máxima recomendada de fragancia de una cera puede hacer que la fragancia “sude” fuera de la
vela curada, crear una superficie desigual o aceitosa, y en algunos casos afectar qué tan
seguramente se quema la vela — mantenerse dentro del rango recomendado por el proveedor importa
por más razones que solo la intensidad del aroma.
Vale la pena saber
Una vez que una vela esté curada y lista para encenderse, recorta la mecha a unos 6 mm (1/4 de
pulgada) antes de cada uso. Según la Asociación Nacional de Velas (National Candle Association),
una mecha sin recortar puede arder con una llama demasiado alta, produciendo hollín y una piscina
de fusión desigual que forma un túnel — el hábito de recortar la mecha importa tanto como acertar
con la carga de fragancia en primer lugar. Enciende las velas en una habitación bien ventilada,
lejos de corrientes de aire, mantenlas alejadas de cualquier cosa inflamable, y deja de quemarlas
cuando quede aproximadamente 1,3 cm (media pulgada) de cera en el fondo del recipiente.
Multiply your container's fill volume by your wax type's density (soy and paraffin are commonly cited around 0.90 g/mL, coconut around 0.88 g/mL, and beeswax around 0.96 g/mL). This calculator does that conversion for you and also works out the matching fragrance oil weight.
What percentage of fragrance oil should I use?
Most wax types are commonly recommended at a 6-10% fragrance load (fragrance oil weight as a percentage of wax weight), with some paraffin blends tolerating up to 12%. Beeswax typically holds much less added fragrance well, often recommended under 6%. Always check your specific wax and fragrance supplier's own recommended maximum -- exceeding it can cause the fragrance to "sweat" out of the cured candle.
Why does the same size container need a different amount of wax depending on the wax type?
Wax is sold and measured by weight, but a container's fill volume is fixed. Since different waxes have different densities (weight per unit of volume), a denser wax like beeswax needs more grams to fill the exact same container than a lighter wax like coconut wax does.
How long should a candle cure before I can judge its scent throw?
Typically 1-2 weeks, though this varies by wax type -- freshly poured candles need time for the fragrance to fully bind with the wax. Testing a candle's scent immediately after pouring can be misleading, since the true cured scent throw usually develops over that curing period.
What happens if I add too much fragrance oil?
Exceeding your wax's recommended maximum fragrance load can cause the fragrance to "sweat" out of the cured candle, produce an uneven or oily surface, and in some cases affect how safely the candle burns. Staying within your supplier's recommended range matters for more than just scent strength.
Can I use essential oils instead of fragrance oil?
You can, but they behave differently: essential oils are generally weaker in a cured candle's scent throw than fragrance oil formulated for candles, and some have low flashpoints that make them unsuitable at typical candle-making temperatures. If you substitute, check the specific oil's flashpoint and recommended usage rate rather than assuming it behaves the same as fragrance oil at the same percentage.
What if my wax isn't one of the density options listed?
Check your wax supplier's own data sheet for its density in g/mL (sometimes listed as specific gravity, which is numerically close for most waxes) and use that figure directly -- wax density varies enough between blends and additives that the built-in presets are a starting point, not a substitute for your specific wax's published number.
Should I use the volume printed on my container, or measure it myself?
Measure it yourself if you can -- the volume printed on a container's packaging (often its water capacity) can differ from how much wax actually fits once you leave headspace below the rim. A quick way: weigh the empty container, fill it with water to your intended wax line, weigh it again, and use that water weight in grams as your volume in milliliters (water is almost exactly 1 g/mL).
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