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Lease vs. Buy
Buying Wins
$0
The Numbers
Buying Wins
$0
The Numbers
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Disclaimer
This calculator provides estimates for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial, medical, legal, or tax advice. Always consult a qualified professional about your specific situation.
Comparing Net Cost, Not Just Monthly Payment
Comparing a lease against a loan fairly means looking at NET cost, not just the monthly
payment — because buying leaves you with an asset (the vehicle’s resale value, minus any
remaining loan balance) that leasing never does. Enter a vehicle’s price, how long you want to
compare leasing and buying over, and the terms for each path — down payment, loan APR and term
for buying; a monthly lease payment and signing costs for leasing — and this calculator returns
the net cost of each option and which one comes out ahead.
This is distinct from the Auto Lease Calculator calculator, which derives a single lease
payment from a vehicle’s residual value and money factor, and Cash Back vs. Low Interest Calculator,
which compares two different financing offers on the same purchase rather than leasing against
buying.
Leasing’s net cost (no equity to subtract, since the vehicle is returned):
Net Cost (Lease)=Lease Down Payment+Monthly Lease Payment×Comparison Months
Worked Example
A $35,000 vehicle compared over 36 months, expected to be worth 55% of its price at
that point:
Buy: $3,000 down, financed at 6% APR over 60 months. The monthly payment works out
to about $618.65. After 36 payments, the loan still has about $13,959 remaining, and
the vehicle is worth $19,250 (55% of $35,000) — equity of about $5,291. Total paid is
about $25,271, so the net cost of buying is about $19,980.
Lease: $2,000 due at signing, $400/month. Total paid over 36 months is
2000+400×36=16,400.
In this example, leasing wins by about $3,580 over the 36-month comparison period.
Key Factors to Consider
Mileage limits are a real cost leasing puts on you that buying doesn’t. Most leases cap
annual mileage (commonly 10,000-15,000 miles/year) and charge a per-mile fee for anything over
that limit — a driver who regularly exceeds a lease’s mileage allowance may find buying
meaningfully cheaper in practice than this net-cost comparison alone suggests, since excess-
mileage fees aren’t part of the calculation.
This comparison ends at a fixed point in time — what happens after that point matters for
the real decision. A bought vehicle can keep being driven with no more payments after the
loan is paid off, while a leased vehicle must be returned, re-leased, or bought out at the end
of its term — a longer time horizon generally favors buying, since it captures more
payment-free years of ownership.
Leasing typically comes with stricter wear-and-tear standards than simply owning a car
outright. Excess wear charges at lease-end (for things like larger dents, stains, or worn
tires) are a real cost some lessees don’t budget for — buying carries no equivalent penalty for
normal use.
A vehicle’s actual depreciation rate is the single biggest driver of which option wins.
Vehicles that hold their value well tend to favor buying (more resale equity to offset the loan),
while vehicles that depreciate quickly often favor leasing — the resale-value percentage entered
here is worth researching for the specific make and model being considered, rather than
guessing.
Common Mistakes
Comparing only the monthly payments instead of the net cost. A lease’s lower monthly
payment can look like the obvious winner, but it ignores the equity buying builds — the whole
reason this calculator exists is to make that fair, apples-to-apples comparison instead.
Guessing a vehicle’s resale value instead of researching it. Depreciation rates vary
enormously by make and model — a vehicle known for holding its value shifts the comparison
toward buying, while one known for fast depreciation shifts it toward leasing, so this input is
worth getting right rather than assuming a generic percentage.
Ignoring mileage limits and excess-wear charges when actually leasing. This calculator’s net
cost assumes staying within a typical lease’s terms — a driver who regularly exceeds the
mileage allowance or returns a car with more wear than expected will pay real costs this
comparison doesn’t capture.
Picking a comparison period that doesn’t match the real decision. A short comparison window
can favor leasing simply because it doesn’t capture the payment-free years of ownership that
come after a loan is paid off — match the comparison period to how long you’d actually keep the
vehicle either way.
Useful to Know
Need an estimated monthly lease payment to enter here rather than a dealer quote? The
Auto Lease Calculator calculator derives one from a vehicle’s residual value, term, and
money factor.
Already decided to buy and want to work out the loan itself? The Auto Loan Calculator
calculator covers the financing side in detail.
Not sure what vehicle price actually fits your budget before comparing lease and buy terms? The
Car Affordability Calculator calculator answers that question first.
Comparar el Costo Neto, No Solo el Pago Mensual
Comparar un arrendamiento contra un préstamo de manera justa significa mirar el costo NETO, no
solo el pago mensual — porque comprar te deja con un activo (el valor de reventa del vehículo,
menos cualquier saldo de préstamo restante) que arrendar nunca te da. Ingresa el precio de un
vehículo, cuánto tiempo quieres comparar arrendar y comprar, y los términos de cada camino — pago
inicial, TAE y plazo del préstamo para comprar; un pago mensual de arrendamiento y costos de firma
para arrendar — y esta calculadora devuelve el costo neto de cada opción y cuál resulta mejor.
Esto es distinto de la calculadora Calculadora de Arrendamiento de Auto, que deriva un solo pago de
arrendamiento a partir del valor residual y el factor de dinero de un vehículo, y
Total Pagado=Pago Inicial+Pago Mensual×Meses PagadosCapital=Valor de Reventa−Saldo del Preˊstamo RestanteCosto Neto (Comprar)=Total Pagado−Capital
Costo neto de arrendar (sin capital que restar, ya que el vehículo se devuelve):
Costo Neto (Arrendar)=Pago Inicial de Arrendamiento+Pago Mensual de Arrendamiento×Meses de Comparacioˊn
Ejemplo resuelto
Un vehículo de $35,000 comparado durante 36 meses, esperando valer 55% de su precio en
ese punto:
Comprar: $3,000 de inicial, financiado al 6% TAE en 60 meses. El pago mensual
resulta ser aproximadamente $618.65. Después de 36 pagos, el préstamo aún tiene
aproximadamente $13,959 restantes, y el vehículo vale $19,250 (55% de $35,000) —
capital de aproximadamente $5,291. El total pagado es aproximadamente $25,271, así que
el costo neto de comprar es aproximadamente $19,980.
Arrendar: $2,000 al firmar, $400/mes. El total pagado en 36 meses es
2000+400×36=16,400.
En este ejemplo, arrendar gana por aproximadamente $3,580 durante el período de comparación de
36 meses.
Factores Clave a Considerar
Los límites de kilometraje son un costo real que arrendar te impone y comprar no. La mayoría
de los arrendamientos limitan el kilometraje anual (comúnmente 10,000-15,000 millas/año) y cobran
una tarifa por milla adicional por cualquier exceso — un conductor que regularmente supera la
asignación de kilometraje de un arrendamiento puede encontrar que comprar es significativamente
más barato en la práctica de lo que sugiere esta comparación de costo neto por sí sola, ya que las
tarifas por exceso de kilometraje no forman parte del cálculo.
Esta comparación termina en un punto fijo en el tiempo — lo que sucede después de ese punto
importa para la decisión real. Un vehículo comprado puede seguir siendo usado sin más pagos
después de que el préstamo se paga por completo, mientras que un vehículo arrendado debe
devolverse, arrendarse de nuevo, o comprarse al final de su plazo — un horizonte de tiempo más
largo generalmente favorece comprar, ya que captura más años de propiedad sin pagos.
Arrendar típicamente viene con estándares de desgaste más estrictos que simplemente ser dueño
de un auto por completo. Los cargos por desgaste excesivo al final del arrendamiento (por cosas
como abolladuras más grandes, manchas, o llantas desgastadas) son un costo real que algunos
arrendatarios no presupuestan — comprar no conlleva una penalización equivalente por uso normal.
La tasa real de depreciación de un vehículo es el factor más grande que determina qué opción
gana. Los vehículos que mantienen bien su valor tienden a favorecer comprar (más capital de
reventa para compensar el préstamo), mientras que los vehículos que se deprecian rápidamente a
menudo favorecen arrendar — vale la pena investigar el porcentaje de valor de reventa ingresado
aquí para la marca y modelo específicos que se están considerando, en lugar de adivinar.
Errores Comunes
Comparar solo los pagos mensuales en lugar del costo neto. El pago mensual más bajo de un
arrendamiento puede parecer el ganador obvio, pero ignora el capital que construye comprar —
toda la razón de ser de esta calculadora es hacer esa comparación justa, en igualdad de
condiciones, en su lugar.
Adivinar el valor de reventa de un vehículo en lugar de investigarlo. Las tasas de
depreciación varían enormemente según la marca y el modelo — un vehículo conocido por mantener
su valor inclina la comparación hacia comprar, mientras que uno conocido por depreciarse rápido
la inclina hacia arrendar, así que vale la pena acertar en este dato en lugar de asumir un
porcentaje genérico.
Ignorar los límites de kilometraje y los cargos por desgaste excesivo al arrendar realmente.
El costo neto de esta calculadora asume mantenerse dentro de los términos típicos de un
arrendamiento — un conductor que regularmente supera la asignación de kilometraje o devuelve un
auto con más desgaste del esperado pagará costos reales que esta comparación no capta.
Elegir un período de comparación que no coincide con la decisión real. Una ventana de
comparación corta puede favorecer arrendar simplemente porque no captura los años de propiedad
sin pagos que vienen después de terminar de pagar un préstamo — haz coincidir el período de
comparación con cuánto tiempo realmente conservarías el vehículo en cualquiera de los dos casos.
Útil Saber
¿Necesitas un pago mensual de arrendamiento estimado para ingresar aquí en lugar de una
cotización de un concesionario? La Calculadora de Arrendamiento de Auto calcula uno a partir del valor
residual, el plazo y el factor de dinero de un vehículo.
¿Ya decidiste comprar y quieres calcular el préstamo en sí? La Calculadora de Préstamo para Auto cubre
el lado del financiamiento en detalle.
¿No estás seguro de qué precio de vehículo realmente cabe en tu presupuesto antes de comparar
los términos de arrendar y comprar? La Calculadora de Asequibilidad de Auto responde primero esa
pregunta.
Why does buying show a "net cost" instead of just the total paid?
Buying leaves you with an asset — the vehicle itself. Its resale value (minus whatever loan balance is still owed) is money you could recover by selling or trading it in, so it's subtracted from what you paid to get a fair, apples-to-apples comparison against leasing, where you return the car and have nothing left to sell.
Where do I get a monthly lease payment to enter here?
Use an actual quote from a dealer, or estimate one with the Auto Lease Calculator, which derives a payment from the vehicle's price, residual value, term, and money factor (the lease-specific equivalent of an interest rate).
Why might leasing come out ahead even though you never own the car?
Leasing usually has lower monthly payments than financing the same vehicle, since you're only paying for the portion of the car's value you use during the lease term, not the whole purchase price. If a vehicle depreciates quickly, buying's resale value at the end of the comparison period may not offset that payment gap, making leasing the cheaper option overall.
Does this account for lease mileage limits or excess wear fees?
No — this compares total net cost assuming you stay within a lease's normal terms. Most leases cap annual mileage and charge per-mile fees beyond it, plus potential excess-wear charges at lease-end. If you drive significantly more than a typical lease allowance, factor those extra costs in separately when weighing the result.
What happens after the comparison period ends?
This calculator only compares net cost up through the number of months you enter. A bought vehicle keeps being usable with no further payments after its loan is paid off, while a leased vehicle must be returned, re-leased, or bought out — a longer real-world time horizon generally favors buying, since it captures more payment-free years that this comparison window doesn't account for.
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